External Wall Insulation Thickness Guide (UK): 50mm vs 80mm vs 100mm

External Wall Insulation thickness is one of the most common questions homeowners ask. Should you choose 50 mm, 80 mm, or 100 mm? The answer depends on your house type, energy goals and budget. In this guide we’ll explain the differences, show you how to measure, and give clear recommendations for UK homes.

In a hurry? Try our EWI Calculator to size materials and add everything to basket in one click.

What actually drives thickness?

• Wall type & condition – solid brick walls usually benefit from thicker boards than cavity walls.
• Thermal target – thicker EPS → lower U-value and better comfort.
• Exposure & orientation – wind-exposed elevations may justify thicker insulation.
• Budget & programme – labour is similar, material cost rises with thickness.
• Planning/Building Control – check local requirements for your project.

Quick picker: when to choose each thickness

Tip: if reveals are shallow, combine thicker EPS on main fields with slimmer boards or insulated reveals around openings to keep clearances.

Not sure which trims you need?

Send us a photo of your reveals and sills — we’ll confirm the right profiles for your chosen thickness.

• Include a quick reveal measurement (mm)
• Tell us your EPS thickness (50 / 80 / 100 mm)

Contact Penguin BM

Looking for parts? Browse our full External Wall Insulation (EWI) category or go straight to EPS boards & fixings. For an overview, see our Best External Wall Insulation in the UK (2025 Guide).

On-site checks before you lock the thickness

Before you buy, run through these field checks. They take minutes and prevent expensive rework.

• Reveal depth at all windows/doors (note the shallowest point).
• Sills & verges: will they need extensions for the chosen thickness?
• Damp proof course / plinth: keep finishes above DPC and specify a tougher finish at plinths.
• Rainwater/soil pipes: note offsets or stand-offs required.
• Cables/vents/satellite: plan re-routing and sleeves.
• Boundary lines: confirm you can add the thickness without encroaching.
• Substrate condition: loose paint/render removed; hollow spots repaired.
• Access: scaffold ties and sequence for base-to-top application.
• Corners and windy elevations may need 8 fixings/m² and tighter patterns

When space is tight around reveals (practical options)

• Slimmer boards at reveals with insulated reveal boards to keep clearances.
• Extension profiles for sills/verges; choose matching drip beads.
• Low-profile beads & trims to gain a few critical millimetres.
• Adjust pipework with stand-off brackets instead of forcing thin EPS everywhere.
• Thinner finish at reveals (keep system build-up within tolerance).
• Mix thicknesses sensibly: main fields 80–100 mm, reveals 20–50 mm, keeping the base coat flush.

Cost & labour: what changes (and what does not)

• Labour is broadly similar across 50/80/100 mm; most time is in setup, base coat and finishing.
• Material delta is driven mainly by EPS thickness; adhesives, mesh, primer and finish are roughly the same regardless of thickness.
• Details cost (sills, verges, profiles) can swing the budget more than the EPS delta—plan them early.
• Rule of thumb: move up a thickness for performance, not for “labour savings”—the saving is marginal.

Performance expectations (rule-of-thumb only)

Exact U-values depend on wall build-up and detailing, but as a very general guide for solid walls:

• 50 mm graphite EPS → noticeable comfort gain; good as a light upgrade.
• 80 mm → the typical UK retrofit sweet spot for energy and comfort.
• 100 mm → deeper cut in heat loss and better stability on exposed sites.
  Always verify against your project target and local Building Control requirements.

Double mesh — when it actually makes sense

Use a second mesh layer in: plinths, around garage/entrance doors, corners, high-traffic areas, and where you expect impacts. Over-lap the second layer generously (≥ 100 mm) and keep openings reinforced with diagonal patches. Adhesive coverage must suit a double-embedded mesh.

Common mistakes to avoid (and quick fixes)

• When installing External Wall Insulation, a few small mistakes can make a big difference. Here are the most common ones we see – and how to avoid them:
• Skipping the primer under coloured render → leads to patchy or uneven colour.
  Quick fix: Always apply a tinted primer before the final render.
• Using the wrong adhesive → not all adhesives are the same.
  Quick fix: Either use two products (board adhesive for fixing boards + mesh/base coat for reinforcement) or a universal adhesive like PSW with fibres, which is stronger than basic PS and works for both jobs.
• Too few fixings on corners and edges → insulation boards can loosen over time.
  Quick fix: Use at least 6–8 fixings per m², and add extra around corners, windows and doors.
• Not allowing extra space around reveals (windows/doors) → beads and render won’t fit properly.
  Quick fix: Allow board thickness plus about 10 mm extra for reveal beads and render.
• Ignoring the damp-proof course (DPC) → render ends at the wrong level on the plinth.
  Quick fix: Always check where the DPC is and finish the system above it.
• Forgetting about pipes and vents → messy last-minute cuts and thermal bridges.
  Quick fix: Plan for pipes, vents and cables before you start, and use the right trims or collars.

What to order alongside the EPS

• Profiles & beads: starter tracks, corner beads, reveal beads, drip edges, expansion joints.
• Sill/verge extensions: sized to suit the final projection of the insulation system.
• Fixings: plugs for polystyrene (metal pin) — approx. 6–8 pcs/m² in practice (use the higher value on corners and around openings).
  A technical layout check gives ~10 pcs/m² (2 boards per m² × 5 fixings: 4 corners + centre, 10–15 cm from edges).
  Always place fixings where adhesive was applied to minimise thermal bridges and improve pull-out strength.
• Accessories: plastic cutter (~1 per 200 fixings) + polystyrene discs (caps).
  Discs close the recess, reduce thermal bridges, prevent visible marks on dark renders, and protect against corrosion (especially with metal pin fixings).
• System layers: EPS board adhesive (or a universal adhesive such as PSW with fibres, suitable for both fixing boards and embedding mesh) , fibreglass mesh, mesh/base-coat adhesive, tinted primer, chosen finish.

This article was prepared by industry experts with extensive experience in external wall insulation systems and materials. The information provided is based on current best practices and manufacturer recommendations as of August 2025.